COSMECEUTICALS: CURRENT TRENDS AND MARKET ANALYSIS
Sep
2011
Vol. 30. No. 3
Introduction
The term cosmeceutical was coined by Dr Albert Kligman
in 1984 to describe topical products that afford both
cosmetic and therapeutic benefits.1 These products exist on
the spectrum between cosmetics, which solely adorn the
skin, and medications, which must undergo testing to prove
a functional benefit. Cosmeceuticals promote skin health but
are not subject to safety or efficacy regulation by the U.S.
Food and Drug Administration (FDA). The FDA does not
recognize the designation “cosmeceutical,” and instead considers
these products cosmetics.
Modern society’s youth fixation and its insatiable appetite
for methods of turning back the clock have fueled an explosion
in the cosmeceutical industry. Irrespective of one’s opinion
regarding cosmeceuticals vis-à-vis prescription medications,
it is impossible to ignore them. Like Spanish explorer
Juan Ponce de León on his mythical journey to find the fountain
of youth (Fig. 1), consumers inundated by mass media
advertisements navigate aisles of products purporting to restore
skin radiance. In fact, analysts forecast that U.S. cosmeceutical
sales will reach US$21 billion by 2012.2
In selecting contributors to this issue of Seminars in Cutaneous
Medicine and Surgery, the editors sought out recognized
experts in the field to distill the innumerable products and
ingredients available to those most clinically relevant. To
maximize the practical benefit of these manuscripts, when
possible our authors have included pearls regarding cosmeceutical
use in their daily practice.
To set the stage, Dr Brandt’s group draws upon decades of
experience in the cosmeceutical industry to provide a snapshot
of its scope and to forecast future trends. Although not
cosmeceuticals, home-use laser and light skin devices also
represent direct-to-consumer marketed skin health products
that are garnering increased public attention. The editors
provide an update on these products and review available
evidence for their efficacy. In the next manuscript Drs Emer,
Waldorf, and Berson review cosmeceuticals for rosacea that
can prove useful adjuncts in its management. In the subsequent
article, Drs Jacob and Lupo discuss the use of cosmeceuticals
to optimize outcomes of laser therapy. Dr Farris
follows with a description of promising new antioxidant ingredients.
At the forefront of research on the pathophysiology
and treatment of cellulite, Dr Hexsel and her group weigh
in on the role cosmeceuticals may play in its management.
Next, Dr Woolery-Lloyd shares her experience with cosmeceuticals
for hyperpigmentation. Finally, Dr Golubovic and
colleagues gaze into the future of cosmeceuticals as they describe
novel nanotechnology delivery systems.
A comprehensive review of all cosmeceuticals is beyond
the scope of this issue. Further limiting a scientifically rigorous
discussion of these over-the-counter products is the paucity
of published data evaluating their efficacy. However, it is
the hope of the editors that the knowledge shared in the
pages herein will emphasize the relevance of cosmeceuticals
to dermatologists as well as highlight salient manners of incorporating
them into daily practice.
The editors wish to express our sincere gratitude to Dr
Kenneth Arndt, whose exemplary intellectual curiosity and
compassion guides us.
Cosmeceuticals for Cellulite
Cellulite is characterized by alterations to the skin surface, presenting as dimpled or
puckered skin of the buttocks and posterior and lateral thighs. It mainly affects women.
Cellulite occurrence is believed to be due to structural, inflammatory, morphological and
biochemical alterations of the subcutaneous tissue. However, its pathogenesis is not
completely understood. Topical treatments for cellulite include many agents, such those
that increase the microcirculation flow, agents that reduce lipogenesis and promote lipolysis,
agents that restore the normal structure of dermis and subcutaneous tissue, and
agents that scavenge free radicals or prevent their formation. There are many cosmetic and
medical treatments for cellulite. However, there is little clinical evidence of an improvement
in cellulite, and none have been shown to lead to its resolution. The successful treatment
of cellulite will ultimately depend upon our understanding of the physiopathology of
cellulite adipose tissue.
Semin Cutan Med Surg 30:167-170 © 2011 Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.
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Treatment of Hyperpigmentation
Hyperpigmentation is a common dermatologic condition that is seen in all skin types but is
most prominent in skin of color. In skin of color, any inflammation or injury to skin can
almost immediately be accompanied by alterations in pigmentation, either hyperpigmentation
or hypopigmentation. Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation can be observed in many
skin conditions including acne, eczema, and contact dermatitis and treatment can be
challenging. The goal is to reduce the hyperpigmentation without causing undesirable
hypopigmentation or irritation in the surrounding area. This review will discuss current
research on treatments for hyperpigmentation and approaches to treating this condition.
Semin Cutan Med Surg 30:171-175 © 2011 Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.
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Nanotechnology Use with Cosmeceuticals
The skin is a complex organ and its aging is a complex process. Cutaneous aging is
influenced by factors such as sun exposure, genetics, stress and the environment. While
skin laxity, rhytides, and dyschromia appear on the surface, these processes originate in
deeper layers including the dermis and subcutaneous tissues. Until recently, most topical
skin treatments were applied to, and consequently only affected the skin surface. Skin care
has evolved to be scientifically based, and as knowledge increases about the physiology of
the skin, novel methods of maintaining its health and appearance are developed. New
generation skin care products are targeting multiple aging mechanisms by utilizing functional
active ingredients in combination with innovative delivery systems.
Semin Cutan Med Surg 30:176-180 © 2011 Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.
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Erratum
In the June 2011 article “Approach to Pruritus in the Adult HIV-Positive Patient” (vol 30, no 2, pages 101-106), the first author’s
name was listed incorrectly. It should be listed as follows: Ser Ling Chua.
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