COSMECEUTICALS: CURRENT TRENDS AND MARKET ANALYSIS
Sep
2011
Vol. 30. No. 3
Introduction
The term cosmeceutical was coined by Dr Albert Kligman
in 1984 to describe topical products that afford both
cosmetic and therapeutic benefits.1 These products exist on
the spectrum between cosmetics, which solely adorn the
skin, and medications, which must undergo testing to prove
a functional benefit. Cosmeceuticals promote skin health but
are not subject to safety or efficacy regulation by the U.S.
Food and Drug Administration (FDA). The FDA does not
recognize the designation “cosmeceutical,” and instead considers
these products cosmetics.
Modern society’s youth fixation and its insatiable appetite
for methods of turning back the clock have fueled an explosion
in the cosmeceutical industry. Irrespective of one’s opinion
regarding cosmeceuticals vis-à-vis prescription medications,
it is impossible to ignore them. Like Spanish explorer
Juan Ponce de León on his mythical journey to find the fountain
of youth (Fig. 1), consumers inundated by mass media
advertisements navigate aisles of products purporting to restore
skin radiance. In fact, analysts forecast that U.S. cosmeceutical
sales will reach US$21 billion by 2012.2
In selecting contributors to this issue of Seminars in Cutaneous
Medicine and Surgery, the editors sought out recognized
experts in the field to distill the innumerable products and
ingredients available to those most clinically relevant. To
maximize the practical benefit of these manuscripts, when
possible our authors have included pearls regarding cosmeceutical
use in their daily practice.
To set the stage, Dr Brandt’s group draws upon decades of
experience in the cosmeceutical industry to provide a snapshot
of its scope and to forecast future trends. Although not
cosmeceuticals, home-use laser and light skin devices also
represent direct-to-consumer marketed skin health products
that are garnering increased public attention. The editors
provide an update on these products and review available
evidence for their efficacy. In the next manuscript Drs Emer,
Waldorf, and Berson review cosmeceuticals for rosacea that
can prove useful adjuncts in its management. In the subsequent
article, Drs Jacob and Lupo discuss the use of cosmeceuticals
to optimize outcomes of laser therapy. Dr Farris
follows with a description of promising new antioxidant ingredients.
At the forefront of research on the pathophysiology
and treatment of cellulite, Dr Hexsel and her group weigh
in on the role cosmeceuticals may play in its management.
Next, Dr Woolery-Lloyd shares her experience with cosmeceuticals
for hyperpigmentation. Finally, Dr Golubovic and
colleagues gaze into the future of cosmeceuticals as they describe
novel nanotechnology delivery systems.
A comprehensive review of all cosmeceuticals is beyond
the scope of this issue. Further limiting a scientifically rigorous
discussion of these over-the-counter products is the paucity
of published data evaluating their efficacy. However, it is
the hope of the editors that the knowledge shared in the
pages herein will emphasize the relevance of cosmeceuticals
to dermatologists as well as highlight salient manners of incorporating
them into daily practice.
The editors wish to express our sincere gratitude to Dr
Kenneth Arndt, whose exemplary intellectual curiosity and
compassion guides us.
Cosmeceuticals: Current Trends and Market Analysis
The desire to maintain a youthful image combined with an emerging global market with
disposable income has driven the development of many new industries. The cosmeceutical
industry is based on the development and marketing of products that lie between cosmetics
and pharmaceuticals. Today, there are over 400 suppliers and manufacturers of cosmeceutical
products, and the industry is estimated to grow by 7.4% by 2012. Although a number of
products advertise predictable outcomes, the industry is largely unregulated and any consumers
of cosmeceutical products should consult a dermatologist prior to use. This review will
provide a snapshot of the current trends of this industry and provide an analysis of this
multi-billion dollar market.
Semin Cutan Med Surg 30:141-143 © 2011 Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.
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Home-Use Laser and Light Devices for the Skin—An Update
Over the past several years, a number of home-use laser and light skin devices have been
introduced for various indications, including photorejuvenation, hair growth, hair removal
and acne treatment. Although these devices allow for privacy and a significant cost
advantage, they are typically underpowered and afford lower efficacy than their in-office
counterparts. A number of these devices have recently received FDA clearance. Although
large clinical trials are lacking, dermatologists should familiarize themselves with the
various options to help patients assess their clinical value.
Semin Cutan Med Surg 30:144-147 © 2011 Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.
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Botanicals and Anti-Inflammatories: Natural Ingredients for Rosacea
Rosacea is a chronic inflammatory skin condition characterized by cutaneous hypersensitivity.
There are many therapeutic options available for the treatment of rosacea, but none are
curative. Since the pathogenesis of rosacea remains elusive, it is not surprising that no single
treatment is paramount and that many patients find therapies unsatisfactory or even exacerbating.
Treatments are prescribed to work in concert with each other in order to ameliorate the
common clinical manifestations, which include: papules and pustules, telangiectasias, erythema,
gland hypertrophy, and ocular disease. The most validated topical therapies include
metronidazole, azelaic acid, and sodium sulfacetamide-sulfur. Many other topical therapies,
such as calcineurin inhibitors, benzoyl peroxide, clindamycin, retinoids, topical corticosteroids,
and permethrin have demonstrated varying degrees of success. Due to the inconsistent results
of the aforementioned therapies patients are increasingly turning to alternative products
containing natural ingredients or botanicals to ease inflammation and remit disease. Additional
research is needed to elucidate the benefits of these ingredients in the management of rosacea,
but some important considerations regarding the natural ingredients with clinical data will be
discussed here.
Semin Cutan Med Surg 30:148-155 © 2011 Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.
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Cosmeceuticals Used in Conjunction with Laser Resurfacing
The use of laser resurfacing for cutaneous rejuvenation has become an important tool in the
modern dermatologist’s armamentarium. To ensure a successful outcome, proper preoperative
and postoperative skin care is essential. Incorporating cosmeceuticals into the
perioperative skin care regimen can promote a better overall patient experience by hastening
postoperative healing, reducing common side effects, and enhancing overall rejuvenation.
This article aims to explore the use of various cosmeceuticals in conjunction with
laser resurfacing procedures. In particular, the overall mechanisms of action behind each
selected therapy will be discussed, followed by a brief discussion of the existing literature
on each agent’s use with laser resurfacing. Theoretical considerations and a limited body
of evidence suggest a potential benefit for the use of these agents in conjunction with laser
resurfacing procedures; however, further placebo-controlled studies are needed to truly
confirm these benefits.
Semin Cutan Med Surg 30:156-162 © 2011 Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.
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Innovative Cosmeceuticals: Sirtuin Activators and Anti-Glycation Compounds
Skin aging is a combination of natural aging with superimposed photoaging. Naturally aged
skin is thin, fragile and finely wrinkled whereas photoaged skin is rough and thickened with
deep coarse wrinkles. In addition photoaging is characterized by mottled pigmentation,
solar lentigines, telangectasias and a loss of elasticity. The science behind skin aging has
exploded in the past decade. Skin aging has now been defined on both a cellular and
molecular level. The study of genomics in aging skin provides us with potential targets as
points for intervention. In this regard, the science behind skin aging becomes a platform for
the development of new anti-aging strategies and products. In this paper two new and
emerging approaches to treat aging skin will be discussed. Sirtuin activating and antiglycation
products are already being marketed by cosmetic and pharmaceutical companies.
These anti-aging approaches are backed by basic science research and the ingredients
used are supported by proof of concept studies although clinical trials are often lacking. It
is this bench to beauty counter approach to cosmeceuticals that remains an industry
standard today.
Semin Cutan Med Surg 30:163-166 © 2011 Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.
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